Hello,
i have a question about using a fret end bevel file. I used one on my last build and it made all my frets loose, they wiggle back and forth. Did i do something wrong or does this happen to other people that use the fret end bevel file?
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Clamp the loose frets down and drip thin superglue into the ends. It'll wick in and set them hard, plus it'll fill in the slots and make them look more finished.
all ready done, super glue works great.
Hi Again, I would suggest that the use of poplar is way too soft for fingerboards that are fretted.
As mentioned it lacks gripping power to the tangs on the frets. I would imagine that the barbs on the fret [which help with grip] crush their way into the timbesr soft grain and leave an open groove to easily pull loose.
Coupled with this I'm thinking that prior to the use of the end bevel file you may have been filing in a downwards direction, forcing the fret into its groove. But filing sideways it is forcing the fret tang into the sidewall of the fret slots and as its softwood its widening the slot. I think hardwood fingerboards would solve the problem if your saw has the correct kerf.
Just a thought.
Taff
Thanks Taff, ill have to source better wood for the finger board.
I use poplar for my fret boards, i have a proper fret saw with a blade thickness of .020. and i make sure i have enough depth for the tang. I had to glue the frets in and dress them with a small file. This is the first fret board i used the bevel file on. Im not sure what is going on.
Thanks Kenny
As Taffy says, poplar is very soft - too soft to rely on it for holding frets securely.
That is strange..... you blade is good... (same as mine)......and if your depth is ok.... did you get some frets that are maybe not good..... like too narrow?
I am using the same frets i have on my last 6 builds, the only new thing i am doing is using the end bevel file.
Hi Kenny, yep as Darryl says, hard wood is a must for fingerboards for grip of frets and wear resistance, and better tone, if you wanna get fussy. You can run a bead of glue along the tang of the fret to fill the void in the fret slot, and tap it in. Wipe off any ooze out with a damp cloth. Frets that are glued in will come out if needed down the track. But as Darryl said the correct saw size is important. if the frets rattle now they will lift up later.
Cheers Taff
I agree with both darryl and Taffy....... If your frets are loose.... make sure you saw blade to cut the frets is not cutting toooo wide. Although no expert compared to the above.... my best investment was a fret saw blade (18 bucks) and although I bought a hammer for this purpose I prefer to add a small line of glue into my fret slots and use a irwin quick clamp (with the rubber removed on the fret side). I also found if you have the correct fret saw and you cuts are not deep enough the fret will pop out (I found the clamp method showed this easily).... and if that happens I just remove the fret and give a couple of more light passes with my fret saw....reglue and clamp
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