I used Elmer's Glue for my neck last night in a pinch? Think it will be okay to stand the tension of 3 strings?....I sat it under the heater all night clamped, I am geting ready to check it out, I'm scared. I was in a pinch last night, no glue andI forgot to pick some up at the store. It was 11 o'clcok and the snow has been flyin' for two days and the roads are bad. So, needless to say, I will have to pick up a large jug of glue to last a while next time.
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Believe it or not, hide/gelatine glue is not as susceptible as you would think. Plus there are ways of 'sealing' the joints and the bow as needed. I don't have anything specific on that but I can tell you after having to remove a few gelatine glue joints, it does take some work. The joint would have to be soaked for some time with heat and water for a real weakening to occur, but there are natural water resistant sealers (if I recall)
-WY
Mark Werner said:
I'm interested in "primitive" archery ... Natural hide glues (gelatin, hide, etc) actually work pretty well, but they are very susceptible to humidity. They remain capable of absorbing water and can fail in high-humidity environments.
I LOVE gelatine glue. Thanks for the great link. In fact, all builds I do use gelatin glue as much as possible -- tho there are times when I will use Titebond (Tres is right, its the best PVA glue around).
I mainly use gelatine glue when I think there is the need one might need to remove/repair a part more easily than PVA glues will allow. Necks (scarf joints) and fret/fingerboards and neck-to-lid joins are where I use gelatine glue. Else, Titebond. Works really well.
-WY
Michael Gajeski said:
exactly. lmao... no, you boil the rawhide in water til it dissolves. let it boil down till its kind of thick and then apply it with a brush. With the gelatin, you just dissolve it in hot water.
I'm interested in "primitive" archery as well as primitive musical instruments, and the book series "Traditional Bowyer's Bible" has had extensive tests of available glues.
Natural hide glues (gelatin, hide, etc) actually work pretty well, but they are very susceptible to humidity. They remain capable of absorbing water and can fail in high-humidity environments.
Modern synthetic glues like the titebond series are extremely strong and permanent as well. Sometimes too permanent; with the traditional glues you can take things apart (using steam)if you need to fix it.
Cyanoacrylate glues (super glue) are very useful, but do not bond non-porous materiels well. They also suffer from being permanent. They are really good for things like filling in too-deep nut slots; just mix with bone dust.
I've been using Titebond almost exclusively for a couple of years now, and it works very well. No failures of any kind.
I have never used anything but Elmers carpenters wood glue. I have heard the tightbond testimonials. But i have never had a problem with the Elmers. So if it aint aint broke dont fix it.
So far, so good on the elmer's. I glued the neck together in the box where it needed to be, and also used it on the frett board, I added some screws to the neck, and I have added strings and the tension is pretty tight. I clamped it all night and most of the day and seems too be holding good. I clamped it and kept it next to the heater, and today when I checked before I put it in my box, the glue was clear. We shall see over time. I don't think it would fly with a 6 string though, this is just my new 3 string license plate guitar I am working on. 2x4 box, two license plates, front and back, oak neck and oak fret board with eye bolt tuners.
i think the problems with elmsers school glue will show up over time its not really the quality of even there carpenters glue. a lot of luithers prefer titbond the original stuff not titbond 2 it will also have problems over time. but hey its a cbg if it gives youi problems fix them.
exactly. lmao... no, you boil the rawhide in water til it dissolves. let it boil down till its kind of thick and then apply it with a brush. With the gelatin, you just dissolve it in hot water.
I use elmers carpenters wood glue all the time I use it on my necks fretboards and whatever the only glue I use.
If you clamped it over night your fine!
I only clamp my necks for an hour or two never had a problem.
I clamp the heels on my necks and after an hour or so I take the clamps out and screw a couple of large srcrews also.
I used Elmer's Wood Glue without issues on my early builds. I recently switched to Titebond III based on feedback from some long-time builders here who like it better. if you are buying new, then maybe that helps.
Regular Elmer's white glue (like for school supplies) might not be strong enough for a joint which has to stand up to string pressure: let us know how it works out.
Replies
-WY
Mark Werner said:
I mainly use gelatine glue when I think there is the need one might need to remove/repair a part more easily than PVA glues will allow. Necks (scarf joints) and fret/fingerboards and neck-to-lid joins are where I use gelatine glue. Else, Titebond. Works really well.
-WY
Michael Gajeski said:
Natural hide glues (gelatin, hide, etc) actually work pretty well, but they are very susceptible to humidity. They remain capable of absorbing water and can fail in high-humidity environments.
Modern synthetic glues like the titebond series are extremely strong and permanent as well. Sometimes too permanent; with the traditional glues you can take things apart (using steam)if you need to fix it.
Cyanoacrylate glues (super glue) are very useful, but do not bond non-porous materiels well. They also suffer from being permanent. They are really good for things like filling in too-deep nut slots; just mix with bone dust.
I've been using Titebond almost exclusively for a couple of years now, and it works very well. No failures of any kind.
gelatin glue
raw hide
Iggy said:
If you clamped it over night your fine!
I only clamp my necks for an hour or two never had a problem.
I clamp the heels on my necks and after an hour or so I take the clamps out and screw a couple of large srcrews also.
Michael Gajeski said:
Regular Elmer's white glue (like for school supplies) might not be strong enough for a joint which has to stand up to string pressure: let us know how it works out.
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