I agree that you can use a zero fret for your nut. If the contact point for your strings is correct and you have your intonation set then why not.
However looking at the picture my concern is the gap where the nut was. It could be a week point. I would try and fit something in there that is level with the headstock as added support.
Other than that it sounds like you got a working git. Would love to see the whole thing in a pic.
I too had concerns about the part of the neck. I could drop in an under sized nut and fill with an epoxy. Ill have to think about shoring that upnsomehow..
pics, Here you go my Brother,
Looks real good.
Hey, I saw this the other day on the photo carousel here. I thought what awesome artwork. Had no idea it was you :D
from what i understand, the zero fret should be exactly where a real nut would be, then the string guide behind. what i'm not sure of is how much larger the zero fret has to be than the regular frets. i've used different sized finishing nails to get it right, but was wondering about the fret sizes? would like to do it more professionally.
Hi, Paul Baileys way is what would do too. I would then dress the zero fret down to get the string action I want over the first fret.
For good intonation the centre of the zero fret (the crown) would be in a position that matches the front edge of a nut. The same applies to bolts as nuts.
frets with flat tops can move the scale length a fraction.
thanks guys. seen a lot of zero frets moved down a bit on the neck. that almost seems more accurate. ?