What do y'all use to cut your f holes? I have used a big rotary blade attached to a drill but am looking for something less aggressive. Any recommendations?
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I use the saber bit tip and the adjustable foot on a Rotozip to cut all my holes (or the same bit type on the Dremel with the fine tip extension), F or otherwise. I can freehand pretty well, but for F's I copy one off the Web, then use the old pencil graphite transfer method onto the soundboard. I start slow, and just follow the pattern, being careful to cut just to the inside of the line. I finish up the edge with small files and sandpaper.
I have a pattern made up on the computer with a center line and printed it out. This gets placed on the top with a carbon paper under and the pattern is traced. I take a small drill bit in a rotary tool and drill all around inside the lines. Then I have a modeling saw with a small key hole blade. I use it to cut between the holes. Finish up with some Dollar Store emery boards.
I tried a fluting cutter bit in a rotary tool. It was too agressive and wanted to wander. I think with a proper template so you could just punch the fluting cutter through and go, that might be the way to do it efficiently.
Every time I do it I go Arrrgg and swear there has to be a better way, but I really like the effect.
I use masking tape on both sides of the lid. Then sketch them out on the tape. I then drill a hole on each end of the long part. I use a Dremel tool with a router type bit and remove material inside the lines. When they look pretty close remove the tape and sand the holes. I do a little trimming with an exacto blade. About half way thru the process I'm wondering why I didn't do regular round sound holes. Then i post a pic and one of you guys says nice F holes and I'm on it again. I'm getting addicted. Sorry if I copied what you wrote Scott.
John Sawyer > Ken MayfieldJanuary 7, 2014 at 12:11am
I love the "and what was I thinking?" comment... too true!
Good idea to tape are to be cut with masking tape first. Then sketch f-hole lines. Cut slow & deep with multiply passes to get a nice clean cut line. Then use a forstner bit to remove the bulk of the area to be removed, keeping slightly off from the cut line. Then trim with blade and remove tape, then sand smooth.
Replies
I drill a hole at each end and use a fretsaw,finishing off with needle files/sanding
I tried a fluting cutter bit in a rotary tool. It was too agressive and wanted to wander. I think with a proper template so you could just punch the fluting cutter through and go, that might be the way to do it efficiently.
Every time I do it I go Arrrgg and swear there has to be a better way, but I really like the effect.
Anyone looking for F-hole patterns, check this link out....https://www.google.com/search?q=f+hole+template&client=firefox-...
I use masking tape on both sides of the lid. Then sketch them out on the tape. I then drill a hole on each end of the long part. I use a Dremel tool with a router type bit and remove material inside the lines. When they look pretty close remove the tape and sand the holes. I do a little trimming with an exacto blade. About half way thru the process I'm wondering why I didn't do regular round sound holes. Then i post a pic and one of you guys says nice F holes and I'm on it again. I'm getting addicted. Sorry if I copied what you wrote Scott.
I love the "and what was I thinking?" comment... too true!
Thank you Farmer Ted. Ill have to play around with one of my old boxes to get a feel.
Good idea to tape are to be cut with masking tape first. Then sketch f-hole lines. Cut slow & deep with multiply passes to get a nice clean cut line. Then use a forstner bit to remove the bulk of the area to be removed, keeping slightly off from the cut line. Then trim with blade and remove tape, then sand smooth.