So I bought a 4 string CBG and it was tuned DADF#. It played beautifully. I could play chords, mostly up on the first four frets and press the strings normally and the pitch was perfect. Then I changed the tuning to GDAE, using the following strings: .042, .034, .018, .016. Now the strings bend very easily if fretted too hard or in the center of the fret instead of closer to the fret wire. Obviously I notice this more on the A and E strings.
I brought it to a guitar shop and the guy said the nut should be filed down more to bring the action down. Why would it work fine in the first tuning but not the second? I actually noticed the same problem with my other CBG and changing to DADF# solved it.
Seems higher string tension solves it, but I was really hoping to tune this 22" scale CBG like an octave mandolin, GDAE one octave down from a mandolin. Any suggestions? Would different strings make a difference?
Thanks,
BB
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Hi, due to the short scale the strings have less tension, so a heavier gauge should not cause a problem to a properly made neck, as they will also have less tension.
Taff
I used to play violin way back in public school, and I've recently gotten a cheap mandolin to start learning on, since violin to mandolin is a very easy transition, they are both tuned GDAE, its easy to pick out the same melody line on both, but learning mandolin chords takes a little more work.
So Barry, I'm guessing you are after a tenor mandolin, tuned one octave below the more common soprano (13 in) mandolin. the chord charts are the same so finding online resources should be easy. You need a light tension string set to avoid extra stress bowing the neck, and use the #5 (A) tuned down to G, #4 (D) tuned to D, #2 (B) tuned down to A, and the #1 (E) tuned to E.
Because guitars are tuned in 4ths and mandolins are tuned in 5ths, you are covering a broader range of notes in 4 strings, which is why you use #5 and #4 as your lower strings.
Hello! I am a violin player, this gdae tuning would be great for melody, but I do not know if the chords are easy and comfortable to play. I am about to acquire a 4 strings and I have to decide the tuning of the strings .... gdgb or maybe it would be better this gdae? I have a 3 string gdg Thank you very much!
Jose,
I see you have asked this same question in numerous discussions. Let me ask you one. As a violin player who is used to GDAE, do you play chords on a violin much?
Most violin players use double stops, and more rarely, triple stops, but as you note above, the violin is primarily a melody or solo lead instrument. As it happens, mandolins are often tuned GDAE, but also have a fairly short scale length, typically 14-16", and use doubled light strings under fairly high tension. . A standard 4-string CBG will have a scale length of 24-25.5", and will often use medium strings. One possibility is to have one of the builders here at CBN build you a 22" scale octave mandolin, tuned GDAE, but with medium strings.
You're right, forgive me :). I just wanted to make sure. True, few chords are played on hahahaha violin. And if you play them .... you go wrong :). Definitely gdgb tuning will be the most recommended. I only want chords, and have more chords more to play than 3 strings, so .... I should definitely go, right? Thank you for your holy patience!
Crap, Barry. The string to fret board distance should slightly INCREASE as you move up the neck and toward the body... Sounds like yours does the opposite. Crap (again).
It sounds like the tuning that it had when it came from the builder worked well. Do you have good reason to change it???
Higher string tension from bigger strings, MIGHT bow the neck some and increase the distance between fret board and string. I have built around 20 CBGs and yet I am no expert to advise you. There are few real experts out there..... But I will not BS you either. Go back to the first tuning or be prepared to raise or lower the saddle. From what you described and what the builder said, "Do not file the nut."
CBGs are mostly unperfected and require some messing with here and there. This is why I am sometimes reluctant to sell mine. Unless built extra stout and working good, they are very likely to need work at some time. That is the truth as I see it. And the truth can be a frustrating SOB. With patience and a minimal work shop, most problems can be overcome. Good luck to you.
Uncle John
GBarry Lampke said:
So you think it is ok to up the string gauges on all the strings? The guy that built it counseled against filing the nut any more because it may create fret buzzing - it is definitely lower the further you go from the nut. Am I correct that the only issue with heavier gauge is the tension on the neck? Will I still be able to tune it to GDAE easily?
So you think it is ok to up the string gauges on all the strings? The guy that built it counseled against filing the nut any more because it may create fret buzzing - it is definitely lower the further you go from the nut. Am I correct that the only issue with heavier gauge is the tension on the neck? Will I still be able to tune it to GDAE easily?
The Longer the scale, the heavier the strings, the lower the action..... the more likely the instrument will stay in tune when you fret a note.
The shorter the scale, the lighter the strings , the higher the action.... the more likely the instrument will go out of tune when you fret a note.
Most guitar makers use a scale length between 24.5 & 25.5 inches.
If you use medium gauge guitar strings with this scale length you will have success. Its just a matter of positioning your saddle so that your intonation is correct.
With a short scale like 22 inches , use heavy gauge strings, a low action & move your saddle for correct intonation.
Replies
You may have better results using Tenor Guitar Strings.
or just order a set of tenor/octave mandolin strings online for a little less than $10
Taff
I used to play violin way back in public school, and I've recently gotten a cheap mandolin to start learning on, since violin to mandolin is a very easy transition, they are both tuned GDAE, its easy to pick out the same melody line on both, but learning mandolin chords takes a little more work.
So Barry, I'm guessing you are after a tenor mandolin, tuned one octave below the more common soprano (13 in) mandolin. the chord charts are the same so finding online resources should be easy. You need a light tension string set to avoid extra stress bowing the neck, and use the #5 (A) tuned down to G, #4 (D) tuned to D, #2 (B) tuned down to A, and the #1 (E) tuned to E.
Because guitars are tuned in 4ths and mandolins are tuned in 5ths, you are covering a broader range of notes in 4 strings, which is why you use #5 and #4 as your lower strings.
Hello! I am a violin player, this gdae tuning would be great for melody, but I do not know if the chords are easy and comfortable to play.
I am about to acquire a 4 strings and I have to decide the tuning of the strings .... gdgb or maybe it would be better this gdae?
I have a 3 string gdg
Thank you very much!
I see you have asked this same question in numerous discussions. Let me ask you one. As a violin player who is used to GDAE, do you play chords on a violin much?
Most violin players use double stops, and more rarely, triple stops, but as you note above, the violin is primarily a melody or solo lead instrument. As it happens, mandolins are often tuned GDAE, but also have a fairly short scale length, typically 14-16", and use doubled light strings under fairly high tension. . A standard 4-string CBG will have a scale length of 24-25.5", and will often use medium strings. One possibility is to have one of the builders here at CBN build you a 22" scale octave mandolin, tuned GDAE, but with medium strings.
You're right, forgive me :). I just wanted to make sure. True, few chords are played on hahahaha violin. And if you play them .... you go wrong :).
Definitely gdgb tuning will be the most recommended. I only want chords, and have more chords more to play than 3 strings, so .... I should definitely go, right?
Thank you for your holy patience!
It sounds like the tuning that it had when it came from the builder worked well. Do you have good reason to change it???
Higher string tension from bigger strings, MIGHT bow the neck some and increase the distance between fret board and string. I have built around 20 CBGs and yet I am no expert to advise you. There are few real experts out there..... But I will not BS you either. Go back to the first tuning or be prepared to raise or lower the saddle. From what you described and what the builder said, "Do not file the nut."
CBGs are mostly unperfected and require some messing with here and there. This is why I am sometimes reluctant to sell mine. Unless built extra stout and working good, they are very likely to need work at some time. That is the truth as I see it. And the truth can be a frustrating SOB. With patience and a minimal work shop, most problems can be overcome. Good luck to you.
Uncle John
GBarry Lampke said:
Thanks for helping!
The shorter the scale, the lighter the strings , the higher the action.... the more likely the instrument will go out of tune when you fret a note.
Most guitar makers use a scale length between 24.5 & 25.5 inches.
If you use medium gauge guitar strings with this scale length you will have success. Its just a matter of positioning your saddle so that your intonation is correct.
With a short scale like 22 inches , use heavy gauge strings, a low action & move your saddle for correct intonation.
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