Hi folks just ordering what wood people think is best for the neck and fret board? Have to buy one soon so wanted to get some informed opinions.
Thanks
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I use maple 1x2's because I can get it at one nearby home depot (not all of them carry it in stock) and its stiffer than poplar and easier to work with than oak.
Hardwoods are preferred. Some softer woods can be used.
I recommend using a trussrod on anything longer than 24" scale and more than 3 strings to protect it from bowing and warping. You may be able to get away without using a trussrod on the harder woods, depends on the particular piece.
Gluing a fretboard on will add strength. Making a neck out of more than one piece will make a stronger neck. Scarf joints will work fine if they are done right and with the right glue.
I have used Pine for a neck before, but I won't do it again and I wouldn't recommend it. It was too soft and bowed under string pressure from 4 strings on a 25" scale. Poplar would be a better choice. IMHO
Am I right in believing that a truss rod doesn't necessarily have to be an adjustable truss rod? Can't it be any kind of good, stiff metal rod? Or am I way off base with that?
You are correct. Many builders put a 1/4" thick slice of steel down the center as a non-adjustable truss rod.
Taffy Evans > Ron "Oily" SpragueApril 29, 2016 at 12:50am
Hi, good suggestions above, however two features I would not want in one of my necks, and they are flexible and oily. I used flat steel bar [key steel] in my early acoustics, late 1970's - 80's and they still have a perfect low action.
I don't mind a deeper neck on a 3 - 4 stringer as it adds stability and fits the hand better I think.
I'll agree with many others that maple is great for the neck. It is such a wonderful, hard wood. I love how it sands soooo smooth and the subtle grain structure.
I have used many woods for the fret board from Paduk, walnut, Purple Heart and oak.
Eventually I'll try other exotics. The darker woods look very nice against the contrasting maple.
Thanks lads some good info there. I think I am going to with the maple for the neck and cherrywood/rosewood for the fretboard.
What thickness would be best for the fretboard? Just a little bit more than the tain on the fret wire? Or is it personal preference?
Richard Smith > www.FullerCBG.comJanuary 19, 2019 at 11:40am
I cut necks for individual builders and for my Delta Groove Guitars necks. I try to cut them at 5/16". This leaves room to run it through the jointer or sander for smoother fret boards. I like thinner fret boards, but I am not building these for me, but others.
Issues:
A fret board holds frets. Make sure you have enough wood to do this task.
A fret board is part of a laminated system to add strength and stability to the neck as well as beauty. This is especially true if you are using Big Box pre-cut materials. An importer of red oak necks told me he has a bunch he is thinking of repurposing for archery. A major builder told me in my early days, it is not a matter of 'if' it will become unstable (warp or bow), but when.
The last issue that I think about (and will be adding to my revised order form) is related to the fret board height above the box top. If the inside top of your CB sits on the top of the neck, you will have to get string clearance height from someplace. Lower the neck or raise the fret board. For my necks, it is assumed the end builder will cut down the neck material (that's why we have 3/4" - 1" heels for reinforcement). If you have a thick fret board and thin top, you may not need to cut anything.
I have 20+ fret board materials that I use. I have great access locally to all the material to build necks from most of the woods I use. Hardwoods look great, but they are heavy. A piece of Granadilla or Bocote would look nice, but might add considerable weight to a neck causing 'nose dive'.
Hope these thoughts help and are informative.
Rick - Delta Groove Guitars
wormil > www.FullerCBG.comJanuary 8, 2013 at 10:16am
Mine are 1/4" but it'll be glued to the neck so I don't know that the thickness really matters.
Replies
I use maple 1x2's because I can get it at one nearby home depot (not all of them carry it in stock) and its stiffer than poplar and easier to work with than oak.
Where's your Home Depot? Mine only has Poplar and Red Oak
Hardwoods are preferred. Some softer woods can be used.
I recommend using a trussrod on anything longer than 24" scale and more than 3 strings to protect it from bowing and warping. You may be able to get away without using a trussrod on the harder woods, depends on the particular piece.
Gluing a fretboard on will add strength. Making a neck out of more than one piece will make a stronger neck. Scarf joints will work fine if they are done right and with the right glue.
I have used Pine for a neck before, but I won't do it again and I wouldn't recommend it. It was too soft and bowed under string pressure from 4 strings on a 25" scale. Poplar would be a better choice. IMHO
Am I right in believing that a truss rod doesn't necessarily have to be an adjustable truss rod? Can't it be any kind of good, stiff metal rod? Or am I way off base with that?
Hi, good suggestions above, however two features I would not want in one of my necks, and they are flexible and oily. I used flat steel bar [key steel] in my early acoustics, late 1970's - 80's and they still have a perfect low action.
I don't mind a deeper neck on a 3 - 4 stringer as it adds stability and fits the hand better I think.
Cheers Taff
I have used many woods for the fret board from Paduk, walnut, Purple Heart and oak.
Eventually I'll try other exotics. The darker woods look very nice against the contrasting maple.
Thanks lads some good info there. I think I am going to with the maple for the neck and cherrywood/rosewood for the fretboard.
What thickness would be best for the fretboard? Just a little bit more than the tain on the fret wire? Or is it personal preference?
I cut necks for individual builders and for my Delta Groove Guitars necks. I try to cut them at 5/16". This leaves room to run it through the jointer or sander for smoother fret boards. I like thinner fret boards, but I am not building these for me, but others.
Issues:
A fret board holds frets. Make sure you have enough wood to do this task.
A fret board is part of a laminated system to add strength and stability to the neck as well as beauty. This is especially true if you are using Big Box pre-cut materials. An importer of red oak necks told me he has a bunch he is thinking of repurposing for archery. A major builder told me in my early days, it is not a matter of 'if' it will become unstable (warp or bow), but when.
The last issue that I think about (and will be adding to my revised order form) is related to the fret board height above the box top. If the inside top of your CB sits on the top of the neck, you will have to get string clearance height from someplace. Lower the neck or raise the fret board. For my necks, it is assumed the end builder will cut down the neck material (that's why we have 3/4" - 1" heels for reinforcement). If you have a thick fret board and thin top, you may not need to cut anything.
I have 20+ fret board materials that I use. I have great access locally to all the material to build necks from most of the woods I use. Hardwoods look great, but they are heavy. A piece of Granadilla or Bocote would look nice, but might add considerable weight to a neck causing 'nose dive'.
Hope these thoughts help and are informative.
Rick - Delta Groove Guitars
Mine are 1/4" but it'll be glued to the neck so I don't know that the thickness really matters.
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