Has anybody tried this? Not sure if this would be strong enough but it certainly seems easier than a scarf joint. Basically glue a block to the underside of the neck, let set then cut the out the profile.
Excuse the crude .bmp
Any thoughts?
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You saved this thread just in time Mark. Only thing I'd add is wax paper under the joint so any glue seepage don't leave you stuck where ya don't want to be. Jigs are always your friends. Either knock up ones like yours or, if one does multiples, make a permanent one, or an adjustable one for multiple requirements.
As an aside, it would be MHO that there is little reason to bring joint strength into the discussion of a scarf vs. a lap joint, like Mr. Green is proposing. Both are WAY strong enough for a headstock on a CBG. Scarf would be first choice as it's one cut. BUT.....if Mr. Green or anyone else is clamp deprived then the lap would be the way to go an it could be "clamped" with just weights. Both methods best served using a thin, even layer of glue on both joint faces. You want to really cause yourself heartache, you could precut 4-5 rhomboid blocks and glue them up to the neck and get your angle that way! ;O
If it was a butt ( end grain to end grain) or 1/2 butt ( end grain to face grain) then yes, much weaker joint.
BUT...... those could likely be made strong enough by adding dowels or splines. Contrasting color wood would look a mite bit perdy too!
I use waxed paper most of the time too, but didn't bother with it in the video as I was dry fitting it. You're right though - I should have at least mentioned it. If you notice, in the video, the neck blank and headstock are laying on scrap pieces of laminate flooring. I wax them up with paste wax and use them whenever I'm out of waxed paper. It works almost as well.
good idea with the wax.
Here's how I clamp up a scarf joint. It works like a charm - no unwanted movement at all.
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/how-i-clamp-a-scarf-joint
The trick I learned here about gluing a scarf (is it scarf, or scarfe?) joint is to shoot a staple or two into the gluing surface (not too deep, just barely into the wood) then snip off the staple as close as you can to the wood. You now have nice sharp little points that will keep the joint from slipping once you add the hydraulic fluid we call glue. I lay it up dry first and put a pencil make across both pieces to make sure I get it lined up right when gluing.
You can make it as complicated as you want. That's half the fun. Build to your own ideas and if it doesn't work, try another way. Nothing to lose except time and wood.
Its a good method..absolutely..whatever works right:)
Cheers
Well sir, I've made several necks using this exact method. I still glued ears on the sides so you couldn't see the joint line. This widens the head and also, I think, strengthens the joint. This was before I figured out a way to glue a scarf joint without it slipping. Now I mainly use scarf joints for the one cut advantage that Oily mentioned. No problems whatsoever with the previous method.
I think I,m with Ron on this one no time saved and the other way is much more simpler to do ...
but its a good idea if you are looking for a two tones of wood on the neck ... maybe..so..not a bad idea right?
I don't know about this one but I would love to see a sliding dovetail joint
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