Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on November 24, 2010 at 3:18am

Can you find out what gauge the original strings were? If they were heavy-ish for that tuning, then going heavy for your current tuning might work. You can use this little string gauge calculator thingy for each string and see what is "optimal" gauge, and go up (or down!) from there.

http://www.strothers.com/string_choice.htm

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Barry Lampke on November 24, 2010 at 3:51am

The gauges listed above also changed the pitch on CBG #1 - that's why I changed it to DADF#, which seems to have high enough string tension to reduce string bending/pitch change. CBG #1 is fine with this tuning.


So, DADF# worked fine on CBG #2 (photo below) - the 22" scale CBG - good action, good pitch. Changing to GDAE, one octave down from a mando, with the above string gauges, makes the strings bend and change pitch. In trying to isolate the variables between the tunings, I have been told:

- the nut needs to be filed down to lower the action
- heavier strings may help increase tension.

I am inclined to try the first since a half-hour of a luthier's time may cost $40 and I have no files - and strings are relatively cheap.

I'm clueless and am so close to getting CBG #2 right! Can you help me sort through this?

Thanks!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Uncle John on November 24, 2010 at 4:03am

I use the 4 small strings from an acoustic 6 string set, usually mediums, but lights are fine too. I do this on a 24 inch scale. I think it would work on a 22 inch.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Barry Lampke on November 24, 2010 at 5:08am

Uncle John - What tuning do you use for these strings?

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Uncle John on November 24, 2010 at 5:53am

I use open G tuning: DGBD. Same as banjo tuning, so you can easily look up free banjo chords. So easy to play in the key of G, which fits my voice and probably more voices than any other key. G chord is open (strum) C chord is 2 or 3 fingers and the D chord is 2 fingers. Plus, you can still play slide. All my videos with 4 string CBGs are in open G. Check them out and see if you like the tone and if it fits your voice. I play most of what I do with the G, C, D, and Em chords. Em is less often used, but pretty and just 2 fingers.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Michael Hutchins on November 25, 2010 at 5:21pm

The Longer the scale, the heavier the strings, the lower the action..... the more likely the instrument will stay in tune when you fret a note.
The shorter the scale, the lighter the strings , the higher the action.... the more likely the instrument will go out of tune when you fret a note.
Most guitar makers use a scale length between 24.5 & 25.5 inches.
If you use medium gauge guitar strings with this scale length you will have success. Its just a matter of positioning your saddle so that your intonation is correct.
With a short scale like 22 inches , use heavy gauge strings, a low action & move your saddle for correct intonation.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Barry Lampke on November 26, 2010 at 5:27am

So you think it is ok to up the string gauges on all the strings? The guy that built it counseled against filing the nut any more because it may create fret buzzing - it is definitely lower the further you go from the nut. Am I correct that the only issue with heavier gauge is the tension on the neck? Will I still be able to tune it to GDAE easily?

Thanks for helping!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Uncle John on November 26, 2010 at 8:27am

Crap, Barry. The string to fret board distance should slightly INCREASE as you move up the neck and toward the body... Sounds like yours does the opposite. Crap (again).

It sounds like the tuning that it had when it came from the builder worked well. Do you have good reason to change it???

Higher string tension from bigger strings, MIGHT bow the neck some and increase the distance between fret board and string. I have built around 20 CBGs and yet I am no expert to advise you. There are few real experts out there..... But I will not BS you either. Go back to the first tuning or be prepared to raise or lower the saddle. From what you described and what the builder said, "Do not file the nut."

CBGs are mostly unperfected and require some messing with here and there. This is why I am sometimes reluctant to sell mine. Unless built extra stout and working good, they are very likely to need work at some time. That is the truth as I see it. And the truth can be a frustrating SOB. With patience and a minimal work shop, most problems can be overcome. Good luck to you.

Uncle John

GBarry Lampke said:

So you think it is ok to up the string gauges on all the strings? The guy that built it counseled against filing the nut any more because it may create fret buzzing - it is definitely lower the further you go from the nut. Am I correct that the only issue with heavier gauge is the tension on the neck? Will I still be able to tune it to GDAE easily?

Thanks for helping!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by jose garcia paredes on February 1, 2017 at 9:53pm

Hello! I am a violin player, this gdae tuning would be great for melody, but I do not know if the chords are easy and comfortable to play.
I am about to acquire a 4 strings and I have to decide the tuning of the strings .... gdgb or maybe it would be better this gdae?
I have a 3 string gdg
Thank you very much!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Ron "Oily" Sprague on February 1, 2017 at 10:28pm

Jose,
I see you have asked this same question in numerous discussions. Let me ask you one. As a violin player who is used to GDAE, do you play chords on a violin much?

Most violin players use double stops, and more rarely, triple stops, but as you note above, the violin is primarily a melody or solo lead instrument. As it happens, mandolins are often tuned GDAE, but also have a fairly short scale length, typically 14-16", and use doubled light strings under fairly high tension. . A standard 4-string CBG will have a scale length of 24-25.5", and will often use medium strings. One possibility is to have one of the builders here at CBN build you a 22" scale octave mandolin, tuned GDAE, but with medium strings.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by jose garcia paredes on February 2, 2017 at 10:47am

You're right, forgive me :). I just wanted to make sure. True, few chords are played on hahahaha violin. And if you play them .... you go wrong :).
Definitely gdgb tuning will be the most recommended. I only want chords, and have more chords more to play than 3 strings, so .... I should definitely go, right?
Thank you for your holy patience!

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by JL on February 2, 2017 at 3:28am

I used to play violin way back in public school, and I've recently gotten a cheap mandolin to start learning on, since violin to mandolin is a very easy transition, they are both tuned GDAE, its easy to pick out the same melody line on both, but learning mandolin chords takes a little more work.

So Barry, I'm guessing you are after a tenor mandolin, tuned one octave below the more common soprano (13 in) mandolin. the chord charts are the same so finding online resources should be easy. You need a light tension string set to avoid extra stress bowing the neck, and use the #5 (A) tuned down to G, #4 (D) tuned to D, #2 (B) tuned down to A, and the #1 (E) tuned to E.

Because guitars are tuned in 4ths and mandolins are tuned in 5ths, you are covering a broader range of notes in 4 strings, which is why you use #5 and #4 as your lower strings.

• ▶ Reply

• ‹ Previous
• 1
• 2
• Next ›
• Page