This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?
I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.
A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.
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Thanks Ray for bringing up the question and thanks Taff for the explanation. Makes sense. I have a lot to learn about bracing - hoping to build a mountain dulcimer or two and really stuck on what kind of bracing to put under the soundboard before I glue everything up. I suppose just as with CBGs, I need to dive in and try some things to figure it out.
My old hollow body electric guitar has a post measuring 1" x 1" under the bridge are running from top to bottom.
Hollow body instruments vibrate more, but can shorten sustain because of the more intense vibration. Semi-hollow body guitars have more sustain due to the dampening of the intense vibration. Adding a post under the bridge are dampens, but not as much as a semi-hollow does. Semi-hollow body guitars can sound very solid body to people listening to a recording or a live performance, but Hollow body guitars are more likely to have a more acoustic/electric tone. So adding the "sound post" to the hollow body guitar adds some sustain while keeping more of the Hollow body sound.
Those sound posts are also a construction aid to keep those backs and tops arched or added support for the middle area that takes a lot of stress from the string tension, string vibration and palm muting pressure from the player. Not to mention handling.
Yes Paul, I have several Harmony built hollowbodies that have them, even my Hofner bass has one?
Hi, interesting info there Paul and Brian Q, thanks for that.
Correct me if I misunderstood you but you are talking about guitars with pickups in them, right?
If so, I think we are referring to different reasons for the use of “posts” in certain acoustic instruments. One method is used to enhance the efficiency of the vibrating top. The other as you point out, is to limit the vibrations in the top when it gets overdriven by feedback from an amplifier.
Makers turned to using laminated tops to combat this feedback, others like Gretsch used individual block type posts system and Gibson, in some models a solid block down the centre. And of course, the guitars you guys have.
I have read that when the posts have been removed it improved the acoustic response of the instrument. Others say that when post have been installed, to minimise feedback, no difference in acoustic quality was noticed.
My only experience with post in guitars is this:
Funny Story…..Many years ago I repaired a guys guitar braces in the top. I used posts between the top and back to add pressure to the glued brace areas. Some years later he brought it back for a set up and I thought this guitar sounds “off’ or dull. I checked it over and found that those two posts were still in place, I had forgotten to remove them after the glue dried. The customer did not even notice. I took them out and the guitar came alive.
Taff
Was speaking of hollow body Jazz Box types or Hollow body guitars with pickups in them and both having F-Holes. Some had pickups mounted in the body or on top near the neck and most had steel strings.
Well things didn't turn out well with my new shop. The HOA wanted detailed plans before they would sign off and I got the plans ready to show them and was told it would be voted on at the next meeting which occurs once a month and my helper moved. I went to a place nearby that builds these type buildings and they had very good and sturdy buildings at good prices, but they had a 3 month wait time due to lack of supplies.
Lack of supplies got me thinking about if supplies would be available if I built my own. I went to 3 places near me checking for supplies. Not only were they in short supply, but they had almost doubled in price. 2x4's are usually under 4 dollars, but now they're over under 7 dollars.
So I used some wood I had and made a small shed for the lawnmower that I don't need approval for and decided to make one side of the double car garage into my workshop. Truck will stay in the driveway and I don't have to spend a bunch of money or deal with the HOA. Win-win for me.
I bought a used guitar from the pawnshop for 50 dollars that need a little work. The nut looked like a dog had been chewing on it and the part of the fretboard that the nut mounted to was broke. It's a Lyon by Washburn guitar in Trans Red tint and 2 humbuckers. I fixed the fretboard and put in a bone nut. Then I removed the cheap humbuckers and electronics. Spent a whole day cleaning the gunk off this guitar.
From all the gunk on it, signs of little wear and a few dings I figure this belonged to a teenager that didn't play it much. I'll probably finish the strings and setup this weekend.
Hi Paul, glad your shed problem got solved. that looks like a good guitar for the money, you had a win, win, win.
Taff
Still the same problems with the posting.
Well at least I'm saving some money without the workshop expense.
Thanks Taff, anytime you get a good deal on a guitar you should take it. It wasn't exactly what I wanted, I was going to build a Thinline Tele Cabronita guitar with those Filtertrons. This one is light enough as it is, so any chamber routing would surly result in neck dive. I'm definitely looking forward to finishing it so I can nail that molten metal Filtertron tone I've been wanting so I can get my Fastway/Old ACDC vibe going. ;)
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