This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?

I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.

A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.

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Definitely will do. The Blue paint is a car paint, so I'll be using a primer underneath. I like to use a filler primer because it fills in the grain and all the little dings/scratches. Any big scratches will be filled in with superglue before the primer, it works very well for that.

That paint stripper is nasty stuff. I hang the body by wire and put plastic underneath to catch all the chips and runoff. Then put the sheet in a garbage bag to throw away. I rinse the body off thoroughly and even lightly wet sand beore the glue and primer.  It's a process that takes a good bit of time.

Shamisen maker with a customer, 1909

Those are very talented luthier's and I find an appreciation for their skill making those instruments by hand.

Just Made a jig to rout out truss rod channels. using my dremel clone and a dremel router attachment.

That's friggen neat! What are you using for truss rods?

one of these ebay jobs. this one is 52 cm long because its for that neck which is a 30" 3 string bass neck. was $10 AUD delivered , about $7 US??

Thanks, where can I find info on setting these up!

That's a cool jig.

Why 3 strings instead of 4?

why not? 

Mainly because 4 strings would be a bit crowded on a 40mm wide Tasmanian Oak neck. for me anyway , and cant let the CBG get jealous of an extra string .  Going to tune it to EAD so i can learn to play it easily and play it with my std guitars..

My J Bass is 40mm at the nut so it could be done unless you have really big hands.

That's okay though, do what you want and play on.

well that could have gone better...  here is a tip for you. if you are using a Dremel type tool , make sure you are using the correct collet for the bit you are using. i used one that was too big. It felt like i was tightening it and it seemed ok. but i noticed the routed channel was a bit wider than i expected. turns out the bit was coming loose and wobbling a bit.. not too much damage i will pack some thick card stock in the channel to stop it rattling. changed the  collet and it worked better but the outside runs had already been made. 

I was using a router on a router table to make a trussrod channel, had it all set up right the rights size bit in the right collet, set at the right height and the bit started moving upwards out of the collet and cut all the way through the wood. Guess it was all the vibration that made the collet loose enough for the bit to wandered upwards. Stopped using that router table after that.

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