Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Joker on June 22, 2010 at 10:09am

Altoids tin, discarded floorboard, deer antler and piezo

Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on June 22, 2010 at 12:54pm

That's an idea. Floor boards. In China, floor board is probably the best "wood" to work with. Some brands are certainly strong enough. I just can't find any source for decent wood. My limited "survival" Chinese language skills don't help matters. Two of my three finished canjos were build out of broom handles (nicely finished broom handles that I bought for about $5 US a piece, and the third is made of soft pine. Soft pine is easy to work with, but I have had some problems with the wood splitting. So, one of these days, when I have access to a wood shop (or just a Chinese carpenter), I'll try cutting down the floorboard into more friendly dimensions to work on.

Joker said:

Altoids tin, discarded floorboard, deer antler and piezo

Permalink Reply by Cogdell boy (Robert J.) on June 29, 2010 at 9:54am

A one sting diddly bow with a piezo inside and pennys for frett markes ...

Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on June 30, 2010 at 4:01am

Nice build, Diane. How does this "altoid-tar" sound, without the piezo, etc? Is there a fair amount of volume? Enough to sit and strum by yourself? A sound file would be cool with a sample song. If the volume is good without going to electric, I think I'll try building one. I also get kind of bothered with the can resonator getting in the way.

What is the string spacing you are using? With a 2" wide stick and your picture, it looks like you "whittled" down the sides of your neck a bit (maybe 1/4 " on each side) to allow for a wider headstock. That should leave about 1.5" for the neck. That would suggest maybe a 1/2" space between the two strings and either edge of the neck. Is this a good, playable spacing? I am currently working on my first 2-stringer and the string spacing is quite close because I was wanting to experiment with paired melody strings tuned D'-D', and tuned D-D'. So far, that combination doesn't seem easy to play with your standard "soda can" canjo layout. Maybe with a proper bridge and a "flat can" layout like a cookie tin or altoid can, a more playable multi-string instrument can be made. I am still modifying my latest instrument to see if I can make it easier to play, and swapping out cans is still a possibility. I am also thinking of going to industrial sized staples I saw yesterday used on another CBG described on CBN. Should have more sound than my nylon tie-wrap fretted instruments I have built to date.

Also, I was wonder how a "strum hollow" helps. To me, it seems just a way to name the area between the "fretboard" and the can-resonator on a canjo. It also seems to cut short your fretboard, eliminating 1 or 2 more of the higher fret positions. What are the advantages? Maybe, its just depends on your style of playing -- whether you play quite melodies (like me) or jam on it like a heavy-metal punk rocker!

-Rand

Permalink Reply by Rand Moore on June 30, 2010 at 5:25am

I've been reading about diddley-bows on CBN and this "floorboard idea" seems best suited to making "diddley boards". So, I'll probably do one once I'm back home in China.

Rand Moore said:

That's an idea. Floor boards. In China, floor board is probably the best "wood" to work with. Some brands are certainly strong enough. I just can't find any source for decent wood. My limited "survival" Chinese language skills don't help matters. Two of my three finished canjos were build out of broom handles (nicely finished broom handles that I bought for about $5 US a piece, and the third is made of soft pine. Soft pine is easy to work with, but I have had some problems with the wood splitting. So, one of these days, when I have access to a wood shop (or just a Chinese carpenter), I'll try cutting down the floorboard into more friendly dimensions to work on.

Joker said:

Altoids tin, discarded floorboard, deer antler and piezo

Permalink Reply by Jordan Burk on July 1, 2010 at 11:13am

I've got a Victoria's Secret mint tin, and it's only 1.5 inch's wide and 2.5 inch's long. So it's only as long as a altoids can is wide. You could probably make a 17" two-stringer with it also. I just thought it looked cool. The ladies would like it!

Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on July 1, 2010 at 12:30pm

Have at it! You can go even smaller, maybe 15".
Jordan Burk said:

I've got a Victoria's Secret mint tin, and it's only 1.5 inch's wide and 2.5 inch's long. So it's only as long as a altoids can is wide. You could probably make a 17" two-stringer with it also. I just thought it looked cool. The ladies would like it!

Permalink Reply by Jordan Burk on July 1, 2010 at 7:04pm

I also just found a Altoids tin in the house that is in great shape, and still full of slightly stale mints.

Diane in Chicago said:

Have at it! You can go even smaller, maybe 15".

Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on July 2, 2010 at 12:44am

I have a stash of newer Altoid tins, the chocolate kind with a brown and gold labling. However the tops are embossed, which I think is going to cause problems with the bridge. I'm going to try buffing off the label on the bottom, (which is not really a label but the painted-on kind) and use it upside down. I have put a piece of felt between the tin and the wood on the other instruments, which will be even more important if the tin is embossed.

Anyone know of another way of getting the "paint" off? I'd leave it, but it is nutritional info and a barcode - not very arty.

Jordan Burk said:

I also just found a Altoids tin in the house that is in great shape, and still full of slightly stale mints.

Diane in Chicago said:

Have at it! You can go even smaller, maybe 15".

Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on July 2, 2010 at 6:56am

You HAVE to try the etching thing! We did it with a car battery recharger and a vat of salt water and it worked great on both copper and aluminum.

Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try!


Nick Shenfield said:

Diane,
I found this website detailing a method to etch Altoids tin. It starts with getting the paint off using "Paint & Epoxy Remover". Could also help solve your "not very arty" problem.

Nick.

Diane in Chicago said:

I have a stash of newer Altoid tins, the chocolate kind with a brown and gold labling. However the tops are embossed, which I think is going to cause problems with the bridge. I'm going to try buffing off the label on the bottom, (which is not really a label but the painted-on kind) and use it upside down. I have put a piece of felt between the tin and the wood on the other instruments, which will be even more important if the tin is embossed.

Anyone know of another way of getting the "paint" off? I'd leave it, but it is nutritional info and a barcode - not very arty.

Permalink Reply by MichaelS Country Boy Guitars on July 2, 2010 at 11:29am

There are a lot of tins in this size, I have 2 that had tea in them(not much tea though) and sucrets came in them years ago, not sure if they still do. Got so many cigar box's I may never build one of these, But I think I will save the tin's just in case.

Permalink Reply by Boogie Man on July 7, 2010 at 12:43pm

Rand, I'm pretty new at this stuff, but I've experimented with several different types of boards and resonators on d-bows. The best board I've found is an oak floor board. The best resonator I've found is a small cleaning fluid can that's similar in size to an altoids tin. I haven't tried an Altoids tin yet, but I highly recommend oak flooring!

Rand Moore said:

I've been reading about diddley-bows on CBN and this "floorboard idea" seems best suited to making "diddley boards". So, I'll probably do one once I'm back home in China.


Rand Moore said:

That's an idea. Floor boards. In China, floor board is probably the best "wood" to work with. Some brands are certainly strong enough. I just can't find any source for decent wood. My limited "survival" Chinese language skills don't help matters. Two of my three finished canjos were build out of broom handles (nicely finished broom handles that I bought for about $5 US a piece, and the third is made of soft pine. Soft pine is easy to work with, but I have had some problems with the wood splitting. So, one of these days, when I have access to a wood shop (or just a Chinese carpenter), I'll try cutting down the floorboard into more friendly dimensions to work on.


Joker said:

Altoids tin, discarded floorboard, deer antler and piezo

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