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when i build a guitar, the setup is not complete until i check the intonation at the 12th fret
if the fretted note at 12 is too HIGH, then the bridge needs to move away, to make it lower
if the note is too LOW, then the bridge needs to move closer, to make it higher.
i'm anal about intonation. i don't even use frets, i play with slide, but you'd better believe that my tuning and marks are VITAL to my ability to play it well. playing with a slide creates a tension/pitch relationship too, that must be accounted for.
i say, (and i've always had good results) to calculate and build exactly according to your planned scale length, and have a movable bridge, so that you can always fine-tune it after building.
keep up the great work!!
That is why the saddles on all my acoustic bridge guitars float. Not only the reasons already listed, but different gauged strings will throw off your intonation as well.
The cedar is still straight.
I got the red oak plank surface planed & ripped & returned to me today. The guy who did it for me said it was high-moisture 'sapwood', very unstable. Turned right back into banana-boards after coming out of the planer.
I guess that's why it was $1.25 or $2 for 1x4.5x48"
Interestingly, the two sticks (~ 1x2-1/4 x 48) face to face LOOK flat, until you sight the stacked boards close to your eye and you can see they both have identical bow. Flip 'em around and it looks terrible.
I guess cedar is the starter...
Oh yeah, tuners...I thought about zither pins as economical, but can you imaging tuning with wrench and no gearing? (Quit whining, plenty of people use them, even zither-luthiers, right?)
But if you find that you have a dime's width at the nut and a nickel at the 12th fret, and you are still "sharp-ing" at the frets nearest the nut, then you can - on the next build, sadly - use a trick I got somewhere on here a really really long time ago and am unlikely to find again, but I'll look and if I find the link I'll post it. It solved that problem for me, and this is it:
When I lay out my fret markings, I move the zero/nut mark back between 1/32 and 1/16 of an inch, to elongate the distance between the zero and all the other frets by that little amount. The extra length makes all the other notes a bit flatter and fixes the "sharp-ing" problem on the lowest frets. By the time to you get to the upper frets, the change becomes imperceptable and voila. I believe this is called "intonating the nut" -- or in my case, the zero fret.
Hope that helps!
Ah ha! the original thead - it is the Wes Yates post at the bottom of the page.
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/scale-length?id=2592684%...
I hear that on the over-planning. Too much thinking can get in the way.
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