People often find neat ways or different tools/items to shape the back of the neck.

I start off using a 1/2" roundover bit(3/4" on 6 string guitars) to knock off the edges and get me started. I use a rasp file(flat on one side and half round on the other), utility knife blades as scrapers, sandpaper and a cheap serrated edge steak knife as a scraper(works amazingly well).

What do you use?

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never had a good result from rasps ,i just use a spokeshave..

I am surprised that no one has mentioned a chisel.  

I typically stop shapng the neck before I get it as thin as I would like just because it takes so much time with the spokeshave, block plane, rasp and sandpaper.

On my next neck, I will try a sharp chisel.  Maybe even cut some small pull saw kerfs across the back of the neck to help the chiseling and prevent tearing out too much wood if I screw up.

I really want the tuner end of the neck to be pretty thin and tapered in thickness.

Haven't tried any power tools yet, as I worry about going too far or getting out of control.

Gary

It was interesting to note on yotube videos,  that quite a lot of the lutheries who make spannish guitars use a chisel almost exclusibvely to shape the neck, including even the curved forms of the heel

I've seen a couple of these videos. I'm not sold on carving the neck with a chisel, but I definitely want one for the heel and headstock/neck transition. I need to save up and buy a good one though. From my experience, it's one of those tools that you get what you pay for. 

1.  Surform, rasp, spokeshave.

2.  Cabinet scrapers.

3.  Sandpaper.

I use rough rasps, then a very cheap wood shaver to get the shape I want like this...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-Surform-Shaver-Tool-115/dp/B0001IWC...

Then sand it down to finish.  Takes a while but if I go down the electric tools route I won't enjoy it anymore.

Sharp things

Haha

I rough out the heel with a coping saw and then use a hand held oscillating sander with 60 grit and then 220 grit to shape the heel, neck and headstock.  I finish up with hand sanding with 400 and then 600.  I've used maple, oak and babinga for necks and maple, oak, tiger wood, wenge and paduk for fret boards.

I have used almost every conceivable method to make my necks; draw knife, spoke shave, router, orbital sander, spindle sander, hand plane, wood rasps, etc., however, I don't know how I EVER got along without my new Dragon files from Stewmac.  Finally, wood rasps in my shop that actually work like they should.  Pricey, but well worth every penny.

Wow, Richey Kay, cool video. I love the idea of doing the rasp work first, then the spokeshave. I"ve been doing it backwards! Also getting that neck out in open air will really speed up the process. I guess I need a sturdier work bench.

Thanks Bluesheart! I should clarify that the only rasping I do before the spokeshave is the shoulder and heel of the neck. I then remove material with the spokeshave and round everything off with the rasps. Looks like we do it in the same order :-)

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