All of my builds thus far have been pass-through necks. Some a simple sticks while others were glued up step-down necks to clear mag pickups.
I recently started thinking about building a resonator, but based on what I know, it would require that the neck be bolted to the box in order to provide internal clearance for the resonator.
My question is this: How would you reinforce a cigar box to hold the bolted on neck and not flex when string pressure is applied?
Cigar boxes tend to be built from fairly soft wood and the sides are relatively thin. I think just bolting it to the side of the box then putting on strings would result in a big tilt up of the neck or even breaking away from the box side.
How do those of you that build bolt on necks for cigar boxes do it?
Thanks
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I used threaded inserts in the heel and a piece of 1/4" plywood on the inside for strength. I drilled matching holes through the box and the plywood plate and ran the bolts through. I should have made my plate wider, however, as the neck skewed to the right slightly. I countered this by moving the bridge over until the strings ran parallel with the fretboard. It looks ok and plays great, but it isn't perfect. The biggest pain was tightening the bolts through the sound hole. I also added some bracing to the lid where the bridge sits.
My most recent build (another uke) I glued the neck on in sort of the same manner. Instead of bolts I used dowels. I should also note that I built that box from scratch and used maple on the sides, so the strength was probably already there. This one came out much better.
I didn't take any pics of the process, but if you'd like I could draw up a quick sketch of what I did.
Thanks Nathan. I had thought about building a box from some kind of hard wood as a way to obtain some needed strength.
I haven't done a "bolt on" as yet, but I have started planning one bolt on and another than may help? I am currently building a TCG (tin can guitar) and fond it necessary to build a frame to support and strengthen the tin, whilst leaving the top and bottom of the tin unsupported to resonate? Maybe an idea or two for you to mull over???
Thanks for the photo Graeme. The internal brace makes sense.
May not help you but my planned 1st bolt on is a bit of an easy way out......my son picked up an old no name strat copy of the hard waste a few months ago, I had a nice big black Chiba box that looked just right for a "transplant". I have cut down the body to fit the inside o the box and will just glue it in place and bolt the neck on into the original space after routing out the necessary spots, neck joint, pickups, tremolo spring backplate etc........
I would say that as long as you have something solid enough between the neck and the box, you should be fine just screwing from underneath. I have done bolt on necks, but only for solid bodies... it might also be worth having a plate underneath to spread the tension of the screws so they don't damage the box. Ive had no problems at all with strength.
I just glue the battons that come in the box in and that adds enough support to keep the box from caving in. I have built at least 20 using this method. If I have a paper top box, without battons and with plywood bottom and sides or even paper sides, I cut proper size strips of plywood battons, pulled out of other boxes and glue them in.
Good idea Will. The battons would add strength if glued in place. I may give that a try. Thanks
I cut a thin piece of hardwood 1/4" or less thick, the full width and length of the side your neck will mount.(don't forget that your lid has to close) Then cut 2 pieces the same width and length of the top and bottom. Butt the top and bottom to the side The pix shows a 2 These are 2 different necks don't let that throw you, the procedure is the same." +/- piece I cut at 45deg that is glued to the bottom of the neck. It makes the heel of the neck. After it dries cut 2 deg to clean up.Use a 1/2" radius bit in router to get nice radius on back of neck.I drill a hole in the end and use a 1/4X20 hanger bolt. 1/4" dowel center comes in handy here, but not critical I like to let fretboard overlap onto box Usually is 2 1/2" or so. No flex due to string tension. Hope this makes sense to you, if not get back to me
Thanks Hound.
Yea, it does make sense. Looks like it should provide the strength needed for three strings.
Looks like a well used Craftsman table saw. The one tool I wouldn't let go of for any amount.
Correct on the well used Craftsman '82 Model iirc. Also,I forgot to tell you use as big of a fender washer you can,even if it requires grinding a flat spot for clearance.
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