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Should the straight thru neck contact the top off the box the entire way?

You know the way the neck as it enters the box is typically touching the top (soundboard, right?) the entire way? I don't take the neck through the back of the box, i use a mandolin tailpiece so I just screw it into the end of the box under the mandolin hinge.

I'm thinking that the neck does impart some vibration most of it must come from the bridge itself. So i was thinking maybe I should give the soundboard more free space to vibrate and trim away some of the wood from the neck that would touch the top. I leave a good inch where the bridge would be (like a bracer) and a 1/4 inch where the neck enters and hits the back end. Where i cut away, it would only be enough to let the top soundboard vibrate without hitting it, say 1/8 deep cut.

Has anyone done this? Does it make sense to try?

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Permalink Reply by Slowpaw Steve T on February 17, 2015 at 7:21am

WTF it's only a home made box guitar...don't worry ;-)

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Permalink Reply by the anonymous pick on February 17, 2015 at 8:26pm

yeah try and get as straight as ya can ,, if there is a slight curve , use it as a back curve when installing .

i find it is also better to pick the shorter pre cut 3 or 4 foot lengths .. than the longer ones usually stored under stress and more twisty ,

a plainer .. depends on the wood . i've seen a plainer cause curve .

oak can sometimes come out like a half a McDonalds sign .

lol . but a plainer can help too , as fret leveling will to a point . .

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Permalink Reply by Comrade Paul on February 18, 2015 at 2:51am

Thanks guys. I hear ya about the handmade, you know I really don't care as much how it looks, but I do like it to play well. The more I do the more playability I want. Each time I start a new one I think 'this is the one that will set up just right'. Ha delusionary I think.

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Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on February 23, 2015 at 2:23pm

I use top braceing on my ukes (not neck through body) but not on the guitars (neck through). If I had an extremely thin top, I would brace it.

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Permalink Reply by George Mesheau on February 24, 2015 at 2:40pm

In reading all the various scenarios presented here, I know exactly what I am going to do on the one I am currently working on... tks.. I think ..maybe.. perhaps.. anyway its all good, I think.....................

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Permalink Reply by ProfWaldo on March 1, 2015 at 8:43am

Personally, I always leave about a 1/4" space between neck and box lid, only touching about 1/4" at the ends.

I've also glued a Popsicle stick or tongue depressor across the bottom of the lid right under the bridge to strengthen thin tops and maybe it's my imagination,.. but it seems to make the sound "pop". ;-)

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Permalink Reply by Pete Chandler - Gigdog CBG's on November 20, 2015 at 1:52pm

The way you described your neck is exactly the way Shane Speal King of the CBG describes building his necks one of his instructional videos. Including the brace under the bridge.

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Permalink Reply by Comrade Paul on November 21, 2015 at 8:49am

Well I tried the hollow out except for a section under the bridge and honestly, I think it's made it more muted and dull. For what it's worth. My next two builds are electric and resonator so thank goodness i don't have to ponder again for a while.

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Permalink Reply by gary sheldon on November 22, 2015 at 5:34pm

Under the bridge is exactly where you want the most vibration. Hollow the neck out in that area as well.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 21, 2015 at 11:38am

The top will vibrate more without the neck-thru touching the entire top. This will not make a good tone difference if your top is made of cheap plywood or that pressed board stuff that resembles cardboard.

If you want the best sounding acoustic CBG, your going to have to use the best quality materials and the same construction you would find in a acoustic guitar. Then again, the best sounding acoustic wouldn't be a small rectangular box shaped body.