Ditto. I got the same one from Stew-Mac with the depth stop and find it very useful. The depth stop makes it
easy to cut the slots to the proper depth..otherwise you may be guessing and find out that upon pressing in
frets, some slots may not have been cut deep enough.
Josh Gayou (SmokehouseGuitars) said:
Don't beat yourself up, Tat. I bought the stewmac saw (with depth stop) and I couldn't be happier. I'm all for stretching that dollar but in some cases, seriously, just get the freaking tool most suited to the job already and move on.
Don't beat yourself up, Tat. I bought the stewmac saw (with depth stop) and I couldn't be happier. I'm all for stretching that dollar but in some cases, seriously, just get the freaking tool most suited to the job already and move on.
I'm interested in cutting the slots on my own FBs, as I'm finding the S-M preslotted FBs expensive
to import. I already have a Zona razor saw, but the kerf is only .008 and a precision miter box,
but the saw blade is .039. A local supplier of fine hand tools has a larger general purpose
razor saw with a back that so I can jury rig a depth stop "fence" to allow uniform depth,
but the kerf is only 0.014 on it.
You are saying that you need a 0.021 kerf to press in medium sized frets?
Cuts a 0.023" kerf straight from the package, 0.021" if you lap off the set with a fine oilstone. I prefer 0.021" for slotting softer nonendangered domestic hardwood fretboards like maple.
Cuts a 0.023" kerf straight from the package, 0.021" if you lap off the set with a
fine oilstone. I prefer 0.021" for slotting softer nonendangered domestic hardwood
fretboards like maple.
I got tired of trying different saws and such,,,bit the bullet and bought the StewMac Japanese Fret Saw and Miter Box, its worth it...I learned along time ago that when it comes to tools quality is worth the extra$$$
I own this same miter box and for some jobs its fine not useless by any means
3 string guitar said:
at first these seem great, but they arent becuse the cut is to slim and the miter box is not tall enough....if you spend 20 bucks from stwerat mac for a real saw it will last and cut great!
i had that exact metir box and it was useless, got it from ebay and thought wow...how great!...till i tryed to use it : (
wes is right about the Japanese flush cut saw. I've fretted four necks with it so far. just cut down to the depth of the teeth and you're golden. I use a framing square as a guide. A few light pulls to make a groove, and a half dozen more to cut to depth. I paid $9.99 at the local Harbor Freight.
at first these seem great, but they arent becuse the cut is to slim and the miter box is not tall enough....if you spend 20 bucks from stwerat mac for a real saw it will last and cut great!
i had that exact metir box and it was useless, got it from ebay and thought wow...how great!...till i tryed to use it : (
Replies
Ditto. I got the same one from Stew-Mac with the depth stop and find it very useful. The depth stop makes it
easy to cut the slots to the proper depth..otherwise you may be guessing and find out that upon pressing in
frets, some slots may not have been cut deep enough.
Josh Gayou (SmokehouseGuitars) said:
I'm interested in cutting the slots on my own FBs, as I'm finding the S-M preslotted FBs expensive
to import. I already have a Zona razor saw, but the kerf is only .008 and a precision miter box,
but the saw blade is .039. A local supplier of fine hand tools has a larger general purpose
razor saw with a back that so I can jury rig a depth stop "fence" to allow uniform depth,
but the kerf is only 0.014 on it.
You are saying that you need a 0.021 kerf to press in medium sized frets?
Chuck Dubman said:
Cuts a 0.023" kerf straight from the package, 0.021" if you lap off the set with a
fine oilstone. I prefer 0.021" for slotting softer nonendangered domestic hardwood
fretboards like maple.
3 string guitar said:
i had that exact metir box and it was useless, got it from ebay and thought wow...how great!...till i tryed to use it : (
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